There is a new energy vibrating out of China, as the younger generations led by Gen Y (millennials) and pulsated further by Gen Z have generated a creative base of products stemming from sustainability through to responsible design and consumer appeal. A new cultural confidence is emerging, a national pride, and this has certainly had an effect on the textile developments featured at Interfiliere Shanghai (25-26 September), the textile show for lingerie and intimate apparel, returning after a four year hiatus. Goodbye copycats, hello trailblazers, as lace, embroidery and jersey knit mills exhibited their collections, many of which are sustainably sourced in terms of ingredients. <h3><b>Sustainability Becomes the New Normal</b></h3> The underlying clean processing and reduced waste in the manufacturing is becoming the norm, with the China Government encouraging new green initiatives in all industries. Solar and wind power are being implemented into factories, water saving techniques through eco-dye machinery and digital printing were clear to see. Fabric hangers were made from recycled card, as were hang tags. There isn’t so much of a ‘shout out’ on sustainability. Now, it is expected. It seems that today developments in cleaner and efficient sourcing should be par for the course. <h3><b>Refocusing on Creativity</b></h3> Instead it was evident that much effort has been spent on the creativity of textiles, from the composition through to the structure. Performance did also feature, from anti-odor to moisture management but wasn’t the USP (unique selling proposition) this season. Creativity and hand-feel was the engine that suppliers were banking on to drive sales. <h3><b>Beware of Basics … </b></h3> One speed bump for intimate apparel in China is the popularity of the one piece bra, or as Jos Berry of Paris Concepts calls it, the ‘cookie cutter bra’. The one piece bra, with no finishing, no structures, no components is incredibly popular in the China domestic market. Identifiable by integrated moulded cups and a high back, this popular style sees no sign of abating. Born during lockdown, Chinese women have realised that comfort is king, and aren’t prepared to return to the more fastidious structures of traditional bras, other than for special occasions. But on a global level this isn’t new. You only have to look at the popularity of Skims to see the demise of the traditional lingerie sector. Moving forward the one-piece bra is expected to evolve, as more detail features, but only so long as it does not interfere with the comfort level.